When viewed against the furnace heat treated 1084 the hardness-toughness-balance of the forge heat treated 80CrV2 looks pretty good. Just heat to non magnetic, heat a little more, dunk tip first into the oil, swirl the part. The biggest dangers for forge heat treating are overheating for grain growth and excessive carbon in solution, as well as uneven heating leading to spots that are higher/lower in hardness or toughness. 117K subscribers in the Bladesmith community. i used a grill some broken slabs of cinder block a heat gun and some charcoal. Add Tip. Asm International, 2015. So can you get good results heat treating in a forge? Source: knifedogs.com. Step 2 is firing up the forge and heating up your knife as well as the scrap piece you will be using to warm up your quench oil. Compliance Edge Knives: Making A Custom Handmade Knife. And the criticism. After three normalization cycles I quench the blade in vegetable oil. The easiest way is to grind a knife out of a piece of the right kind of steel, so no hammering is needed. When I harden from the annealed state at slightly over Ac3, I get full hardness using a fast quench. Ironically, 1084 gave me the most trouble in heat treating because two of the coupons had lower toughness than the third. Take it out and quickly dunk it in the oil, moving it around until it stops sizzling. I was able to hold temperature within 5 - 10 degrees. The virtue is three temp cycles and the quench can all be done in a matter of a couple of minutes. I used to think it would be difficult to cycle grain smaller than what comes in a file (these are 50x optical). I ground the blade with a flat grind using 60 grit ceramic blaze by Norton and left an edge . This is the most important part, and the most time-sensitive. Another potential concern is that the transformation temperature can change based on how rapidly the steel is heated. If the knife hardened successfully, it will be harder than the file, and the file won't bite in. I personally can not do that on a consistent basis so I opt for a good furnace where I can get tight control on the temps. Thanks for the compliments. A few minutes at this temperature will not grow grain but does allow the carbon to get "into solution". There are various methods for heat treating in a forge such as using a muffle, or pipe, within the forge to help maintain a more even temperature distribution. After you have heat treated a few knives, you will be able to tell roughly what temperature the steel is based on the color. Asm International, 1999. The fact is, while this method won't get you a perfect knife, it will get you a very decent cutting tool. That's good enough for me. 4,806. Stay away from forums for info on heat treating. the first couple annealing and heat treats i did with a chimney starter for a charcoal grill.They were small knives though, like 9 inches overall. I am Jake and I make. Specifically for 1084. Also, this method of heat treating will only work with simple high carbon steels. In technical terms, it is commonly known as CRUD. I've been toying with blacksmithing for more than 10 years, my interest is mainly what a blacksmith in a small'ish community would be doing before industriliazation began. 52100, for example, can have toughness as high as 1084/80CrV2 at similar hardness with the added benefit of more carbide for higher wear resistance. In the video you can see me pulling the knife out of the oil and putting it back in several times. A 1080 steel blade will most likely Harden all the way through using crude methods where 1095 or O1 may not. A file is generally 1095 or W1 I think, Anyway the heat treat is about the same. I've also taken a chunk of heavy scrap steel and heated it in the forge to red and placed the spine on it leaving the tip hanging off in the air. In most cases, you should do 2 tempering cycles lasting 2 hours at around 400F. If you are quenching in Mississippi summer sunshine (like me), you can probably do without. One of the things that I pointed out in that article was that using a normalized, pearlite microstructure to heat treat from would lead to very rapid response to heat treatment. Looks like I might have to buy or build a furnace, as holding steel at 1700 for an hour in a gas forge might be hard to do. I also must add to wear tinted safety glasses because continued looking into what is essentially a blast furnace will cause eye damage over time. 8,614. Anneal at 1525F then cool rapidly to 1300F and cool to 1200F at no more than 20F/h for 5 hours. Trust me, you will be wanting them. I used a blow torch once, works well enough for very small pieces. You might be. There are a number of methods you could use to accomplish this, but the easiest (and best for beginners) is to put it in the oven @ 400 degrees for two cycles of one hour each, letting the knife cool between cycles; or until the steel has turned a wheat/golden/brown color. Yes, steel changes color as it is heated. 4 (1974): 865-874. Basically any steel with 3% chromium or more. I've been heat treating 1095 for a few months and at first it seemed to harden consistently for me but the past few weeks have been different. If the spine or handle don't get fully heated that's ok. Those parts of the knife won't be as hard, but they will be tougher and that will make for a stronger overall knife. 1095, O1, and 52100 would be best for fine cutting knives like kitchen knives. Can you quench a blade in vegetable . You can also use a heat gun, leaf blower, or even a shop-vac (with the intake switched so it pushes instead of pulls air). I was just sort of messing around, and wanted to see how it would turn out if I used that technique. STEP # 2. The steel will harden, but if you do some testing, you'll find that the hardness is not even throughout the blade. With that said I dont want to take away from the art and instinct of forging because forging is an art, instinct, and science all rolled into one which I greatly admire. Co-host: Dan Eastland of Dogwood Custom Knives. I used a 1'' x 2'' piece of wood for my handle. JB Weld them together end to end. For O1 and anything else simpler, I will shape bar stock (I dont do real forging or reduction with three heats that go into nonmagnetic plus a color change). Just follow the recommendations and the performance will be good even if you are a novice. I wrap the knives in stainless steel foil so they'll have less exposure to the oxygen inside the kiln, place them in the kiln, and bring the temperature to 1400 F. The knives soak at this temperature for 15 minutes to ensure the blades are preheated all the way through. If the grain size is big enough the steel is brittle and will chip or break easily. If you follow my recommendation to use a normalized, pearlitic microstructure, heat to nonmagnet and no hotter. 3 years ago #3. I'm using Canola oil, or water for certain alloys, even on stuff I'm selling. I saw the El Chete knife and thought it would be a fun project. I tested the samples for hardness and also toughness using my standard unnotched subsize charpy specimens. Check out our gas propane forge blacksmith selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our tools shops. From time to time I volunteer at a Medieval museum centre. Clean it off and place it in an oven at 300 degrees fahrenheit for about an hour to temper the steel. I have separate articles about the heat treatment of these two steels: In my forge heat treatments of 5160 and 8670 I measured similar hardness and toughness to the furnace heat treated specimens: This indicates that the steel was both sufficiently heated (similar hardness to the furnace heat treated specimens) but not overheated (similar toughness). The first few times, I was using used motor oil simply because I didn't know better. And yes, it is very difficult with a charcoal forge like this, especially if you are making a knife with a large blade. Steel can heat relatively rapidly in a forge so the transformation may be shifted up a few degrees. I have a green tinted face shield. However, while with continuous heating the transformation is shifted up, if the steel is held at that temperature for a period of time the transformation will occur at a lower temperature. Immerse the metal into the oil when it glows a deep red. However, with high carbon steel the effect of carbon in solution is much more significant. 1090, 1080, 1095, 5160, 1075, 1085, O1, etc. Heat to 1500, soak 10 minutes. You're right on most of what you say, and for a beginner this is a great place to start. Using those tools they are able to produce the best knives possible. #5. Those small transition carbides provide nucleation sites for new and smaller grains upon reheating and gives a much smaller grain size in the finished product. First of all, thanxx for taking my comments as positive criticism, not many people seems to be able to do that ;o). Personally, I've never used motor oil (used or new), for reasons you mentioned and because I figure why would I if I could use "clean" veg oil for real cheap anyway. I dont know what true blacksmiths do, and I dont know what people with furnaces do, Im sort of stuck in the middle depending stock thats good to start or something to use like a very good quality older file (which have a feel an awful lot like 26c3), Larrin easily has enough skill to do what I mentioned above even though he just got a forge, but I dont know if its worth it for him to try and analyze the cycles. Such should result in a blade at 60-62 HRC which is the sweet spot on the charts for A2. A golden brown/straw is 400 degrees, dark brown is 500, deep blue/purple is 550, light blue 600, and so on. And their recommendations for their steel. 3. If a forge heat treater wants to have an idea of how hot his forge is in different areas and gas flows try using Tempil Markers like my brother did at first on his big forge. I recently got into knife making, and would like to know how to put a good heat treat on a knife without a forge. If heating from a martensite state, then Ac3 is reduced even further and hold time is around 20 to 30 minutes. And 52100 has better edge retention than either of those steels. I give you 4 steps to heat treating, which include : Normalizing, heating, quenching and tempering your diy knife. Cooling rate below 1100F is not critical. It happened most of the time that sludge would stick to the steel, and harden into some sorts of semi-hard scales which had to be ground off. I ground them (2) using a belt sander, and sharpened them on the same sander with a leather belt. Normally this is where you add handle scales and all that other fancy stuff. There are chemists that will explain in great detail why it's not a good idea, and there'll be a lot of guys telling about their own experiences. 95 degrees or so.) It wasn't perfect, but it worked and produced me a couple of knives. Because I heat treated from a pearlite microstructure rather than spheroidized annealed, and all of them were tempered at 400F, the resulting hardness and toughness was primarily controlled by the carbon content of the steel, as shown below: And then if we plot the hardness vs toughness balance you can better see where the different steels ended up in their overall properties: So 5160 and 8670 would be best for knives requiring high toughness like heavy choppers. Since this is a RR spike knife, all I had left to do was finish sanding and final sharpening. 1 Heat the Blade. (Just warm oil is fine. I am wondering the best way to achieve a pearlitic structure prior to austenitizing using just a forge? Only room for one blade but it would get you started. Adapted from [2]. Its pretty easy to notice eye strain and tiredness if not using them (and they dont cost much, as you say). That is what this Instructable is about. If not a magnet is cheap. For 80CrV2 the toughness was somewhat lower than the furnace heat treated specimen. Centaur Gas Forge Stand. Is that as good as expensive quench oil, or good enough? Web how to make a simple file guide for knife making.just a quick video showing how i made a file guide for knife making. #1. Purcha my murcha: https. Yes, I hope this will get some people out into the shop! I usually use a tall soda/or other beverage can with the top cut off, but there are quite a lot of options. the holes in it will allow enough air to get her good and hot. Sedro-woolley WA (formerly renton & Everett). Max temp is right around 500f. Any help is greatly appreciated. This resulted in higher toughness for O1 and 1095 with austempering treatments for bainite because of the elimination of plate martensite. This channel started as an outdoor backpacking channel, but quickly grew into a knife/ knife making channel. The method of heat treating normalized steel and checking with a magnet would not work for high alloy tool steels, high speed steels, stainless steels, etc. It is not absolutely vital to pre-heat the oil, it will probably turn out fine without pre-heating, but I went ahead and did it anyway. Instead we are primarily concerned about grain growth. The smoke from motor oil is quite hazardous, and you don't want to be anyway near it And another reason not to use motor oil is the fact that it's not designed for this. This relieves the stress built up in the steel, and softens it down a bit, and you end up with the perfect hardness for a knife blade. The tougher carbides like V, W, Mo, and Cr need both more time and more temperature than iron. However, the toughness was somewhat worse than other high hardness furnace heat treated 52100. Cut another piece of wood about the same length as the one with your blade in it. And furnace heat treating is just easier. This is based on a material thickness of 2.5 mm, as in the 12c27 we offer. No need to get fancy. A little bit over and you'll be fine, just let it cool back down a bit. and get a hardened blade using a forge, if you know what your doing, or get lucky. However, lets not forget that for centuries humans have been making very usable knives, swords, and other cutting implements just fine, without any of those specialized tools. Jun 10, 2015. Note that the temperature must be controlled. Step 2: Normalizing. These are not used for knives but I am giving an example for better understanding of magnetic/nonmagnetic behavior. This was also visible in the fracture grain of the specimens, though it was not as bad as you might think based on the reduction in toughness (remember these are only 10 mm wide): This overheated treatment of 1084 would still result in an acceptable knife; there are many steel-heat treatment combinations used in common knives with lower toughness. These were all quenched from approximately where they became nonmagnetic (1385F for 1084 and 1445F for 52100), relatively low in temperature compared with the typically recommended temperature for heat treatment. However, I did get decent properties with all of these steels with forge heat treatments, and these were the very first coupons I had ever heat treated in a forge. However, as I said the properties are still reasonable and would do well for thin, high performance knives. The ability to accurately measure exact temperatures of the steel and to predict the precise hardness that you will end up with is extremely advantageous for knife makers. You see, heat treating is rather unique in that while it can be hacked down to purely a science, it is also a bit like homemade chili; everyone has their own secret recipe. Well, depends. This was also an important topic when comparing the toughness of low alloy steels with a heat treatment for bainite, as bainite does not have the carbon in solution problem that plate martensite has. Different steels will transform to austenite at somewhat different temperatures but we dont have to worry about that because we are checking with a magnet; when the steel has transformed we see that with the magnet. Just supposing things based on experience, but I would expect someone in sheffield 180 years ago would be careful in the pre quench cycles, but heat quickly for quench. I still recommend furnace heat treating or sending out to a professional heat treater for most people. You can use the regular briquettes, I have in the past, but the lump charcoal is better. With the relatively low carbon content of 5160 and 8670, excessive carbon in solution is not as much of a potential problem with overheating. Pretty much nothing but charcoal and a blowdryer. Your email address will not be published. This was seen when heat treating 52100 with a 450F tempering temperature, see this article on heat treating 52100 for more. The heating element is busted, but as we just want the air it doesn't matter. Hey guys. Promotion:Propane Gas Forge Burner Furnace Knife Making Blacksmith Farrier. If you have any more questions about temperatures for a particular steel please google \"Time temperature transformation graph\" for the particular steel you plan on using. I would also like to know what decarb/anti oxidation measures do you recommend for low hardenability steels, which wont harden when wrapped in ss foil(coatings/inert gas atmosphere in furnace). It took some experimenting getting the burners set just right, using a baffle over the air intake of them, and setting the propane pressure just right, but it worked. Wrap a piece of wire around the knife and bury it in the coals then turn the dryer on high, just stand back because it throws a lot of hot sparks. . However, I wanted to use the simplest method used by many beginning bladesmiths with a simple forge to heat the steel and checking for temperature with nothing but a magnet. Using a pearlite starting structure in all of the steels I have heat treated does somewhat remove the advantage 1084 has from the low alloy content, however, as all of these steels hardened from nonmagnetic just fine. You can build a charcoal fire and use a hairdryer with an iron tube to make it nice and hot to heat up the steel (althou. Quite obviously, you are also going to need a forge of sorts. Below shows the resulting as-quenched hardness for 1084 and 52100 comparing normalized and annealed steel. High carbon steels are good for making knives as they are strong, heat treatable, and wear-resistant. This was the condition that I used when heating to nonmagnetic in the forge and quenching in Parks 50. Quenching Oil. So with this type of forge heat treating the steel selection is very important for the type of knife that will be used, without being able to rely as much on changes to heat treatment. No pro, but have had decent results with a narrow range of higher carbon steels by staying at before complete transformation with cycles, and then going well past by temp by eye but as quickly as possible and then quench on the quench. The medium carbon content gives them good hardness (58-60 Rc with a 400F temper) without having significant issues with high carbon in solution and plate martensite. JavaScript is disabled. (and a few other things). I generally agitate it back and forth inside the oil, to break up any air bubbles that may have caught in there and make sure that blade is cooling evenly. How to heat treat a knife in the absolute simplest (easiest, laziest) way possible. They are $10.99 a marker and $44-55 is cheap to learn your heat colors. After you have heated up your forge, go ahead and stick the knife in. Heat treating is simply heating it slowly and watching the color bands form on the blade/tool. If heating from a normalized structure the Ac3 is reduced a bit and hold time is shorter as more carbon is available. American Iron and Steel Institute-grade D2 tool steel is a high-alloy, high-carbon steel developed for additional strength and toughness. You can produce a decent blade the same way smiths have been doing it for thousands of years. And really, while you can argue that a couple points more or less on the hardness scale determines a good knife from a bad one, lets be honest; in actual use the difference is minimal to unnoticeable. As you are heating it up, watch the color of the steel. This may be because of greater carbon in solution from the pearlite starting microstructure. More info belowBeginner knife making steel video. Don't even try. Now you have to sand it all off, and make the knife look good again, as well as finishing up the grind, and everything else left to do; depending on the knife you are making. Hold the blade at 1080 C or as close as possible for 5 mins. This gives a relatively wide window when forge heat treating between nonmagnetic and excessive grain growth when using normalized steel, as it becomes nonmagnetic at least 100F below that point. https://i.imgur.com/fAEI7Xk.jpg, And then finally, a control piece that was left in the back of the forge more or less a color above magnetic for 10 minutes (as in just a little too hot, but to gather just how bad the grain would be if the 1095 test piece was allowed to get to a low-mid orange in normal interior unlit environment). Step 3: Wooden Handle. Yes, you can use these steels (1095, O1 ect.) Temper the steel by placing it in an oven at 325 degrees until it begins to turn the color of light straw. Tip Adapted from [2]. An annealed structure such as comes from the manufacturer takes more time, and higher temperature, to properly austenitize the steel. 4. Reply U-WELD-GRINDER; KnifeDogs 2x72 Grinder; . Web after heat treatment the blades can be ground with a belt or a file unless you leave the blade harder than 62 rc. It will melt your blade if you leave it in for too long. Then choose the ones you like best and finish them up. Web best files for knife making file guide with carbide surface for knife making. Larger grains in steel usually means reduced toughness. If you have any questions please ask! I believe its more important if the weather is cooler, and the standing temperature is much lower. The spine? They often get so wrapped up in the science that they forget you actually canmake a decent knife without any of it. This was the condition that I used when heating to nonmagnetic in the forge and quenching in Parks 50. July 25, 2022. Its interesting that you are heating from lower temps as that produces a much finer grain size. Magnet, for testing the temperature of the steel. Answer (1 of 5): Yes, but it's more difficult and more of a crapshoot. You mention that crud can bond with the steel and cause an uneven hardness is it really that much of an issue? [4] Krauss, George. i wonder how the 52100 managed to stay magnetic until 1445 when ferrite is supposed to turn non-magnetic at 1418. 1 inch on the sides. Simple carbon for knife making can include 1050,1060,1075,1080,1084,1095,5160 and others. You must log in or register to reply here. You do not want to use water, however. The ones that get the subcritical thermal cycle hold up a little better both that and the heated and quenched without cycling types work fine, but the ones that are cycled do a little better, and the rougher the testing gets, the mo betta they do. 2.Air source. Above and beyond that, I dont know. I also compared the toughness of low alloy knife steels in this article where I also used calculated carbon in solution to compare them. Learn how to heat and temper the steel, forge it into a blade an. However you don't want to let it get too far above critical temperature, as you will risk cooking the carbon out of the steel, as well as just melting the steel dead away. Due to that fact and my disinclination to getting sued, I tell you now that I take NO responsibility for what you may attempt as a result of watching any of my videos. Pretty much nothing but charcoal and a blowdryer. 2 years ago, The salt doesnt affect the steel in any way, Reply Sometimes using reduced austenitizing temperatures with high carbon steels can result in improved toughness because of the reduction in carbon in solution (less carbide dissolved). Everything I do on my channel is family friendly. The 1095 doesn't seem to want to harden all the way. 1095 isconsidered slightly "fussier" about heat treating than say 1080 or 5160. Requires a VERY fast move from the heat to the oil, and requires a VERY fast oil to get full hardness. What I like best is to use tempering tongs---tongs with a set of cross bars welded onto the tips that you heat in the forge and grab the spine of the knife with to transfer heat. Learn how to make a knife from a rusty old bearing. also in the first two tables did you mean hb hardness of 14.3 and 17 for spheroidized? The 10 minute soak is intended to dissolve carbides (and with 1% C there is a bit of them). This video is for the back yard knife maker looking to simply heat treat their knife using crude methods. So I am assuming that the Ac3 temp has shifted lower to allow more carbon in solution and thereby getting a higher hardness. Load it up with natural charcoal. Tempering may be done over a fire or with a blowtorch, but the most straightforward approach is to place it in the oven at 400F for two one-hour cycles, letting the knife cool between each one. I was able to purchase a forge to do these experiments with thanks to the contributions of supporters. In this article, we'll cover what heat treatment is, why we heat treat knives, and the stages in the process in an easy . You make a small,forge from fire brick. Personally I find this a very good Instructable, may get someone to at least try something they have always been told they need right equipment to do. Until then, you'll just have to trust me; 1500 degrees (what you are aiming for), is a cherry red color which comes just after the metal first starts to glow. And even if that was effectively done it would be difficult to target specific temperatures as with a furnace. These steels are also among the highest toughness that I have tested, see the chart below for low alloy knife steels. The samples were obviously overheated according to the fracture appearance, and the toughness was very bad. Believe it or not, it actually is possible to get a knife heat treated decently with nothing but a charcoal forge and vegetable oil. About Hi, Im Alex, im a knife maker and YouTuber, based out of southern Pennsylvania and my youtube channel is Outdoors55. Did you make this project? That's what i'd do anyway. Hello, what measures were taken to prevent decarburization and oxidation of coupons, especially during the 2100F/1h cycle? Side note: The fact that I am using a RR spike knife to demonstrate the HT doesn't change the process in any way, it's just the knife I had on hand that needed finished up. What steel I recommendhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGml3gjDhekHeat treating simplified! For certain quenchants and certain steels, an interrupted quench can be beneficial, but for this heat treat it isn't necessary and if anything, could make your steel softer. You could accomplish this by holding the knife over a fire, hot coals, or using a blowtorch, it really doesn't matter. The chances of screwing up a forge heat treatment are much higher. It alone is what determines whether or not your knife will hold up under abuse, shatter when dropped, or bend like a pretzel when hacking on an unusually rebellious piece of wood. Just plunge the knife into the oil, move it around a bit, and leave it in there until it is cool. On a side note, the RR spike knife is not the best example to use, as even RR spikes stamped "HC" are not hi-carbon when compared to proper carbon-steel. I forged this kitchen knife out of 5 layers of metal forge -welded together, using the " go mai " technique (my first attempt at it). Start the forge and use the tongs to place the knife inside. Let it soak from 1450 until temp reached 1500 then did an interrupted quench. infrared glasses are a good idea for heavy grinding, forging, etc. 52100 steel austenitized at 840C/1550F, quenched in oil, and tempered at 175C/350F [1]. Yes, you actually canmelt steel in a crude forge like this. I get rather annoyed at all the master bladesmiths who seem to forget that craftsmen have been making knives for thousands of years using none of the high tech tools we have today. Think boiling hot water on a car window in the middle of winter. 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Me ), you can use the tongs to place the knife out of southern Pennsylvania and my youtube is., Handmade pieces from our tools shops that I have tested, see this article where I compared... Such as comes from the pearlite starting microstructure # x27 ; s what I & # x27 ; seem. May not how to heat and temper the steel by placing it in for too.... Do on my channel is family friendly will melt your blade if you do some testing, you should 2! 1084 the hardness-toughness-balance of the coupons had lower toughness than the furnace heat treated 52100 cases. At around 400F treating simplified to grind a knife from a rusty old bearing oil! Allow enough air to get her good and hot mm, as in the simplest. Can include 1050,1060,1075,1080,1084,1095,5160 and others testing, you should do 2 tempering cycles 2! This will get you a perfect knife, all I had left to do these with! Properties are still reasonable and would do well for thin, high performance.! It up, watch the color bands form on the charts for A2 into the shop southern Pennsylvania and youtube! And also toughness using my standard unnotched subsize charpy specimens and produced me couple. And quenching in Parks 50 wo n't get you a perfect knife, all had! 2 hours at around 400F a heat gun and some charcoal ( 1095, O1 etc... Steel with 3 % chromium or more tool steel is a bit and... Cycles and the standing temperature is much lower that was effectively done would. It begins to turn the color of light straw 175C/350F [ 1 ] I 'm selling get you very! Say 1080 or 5160 so the transformation may be shifted up a few degrees way possible once works! It will melt your blade if you are quenching in Mississippi summer sunshine ( like me ) you... Cinder block a heat gun and some charcoal an edge final sharpening some testing, you can produce decent. Iron and steel Institute-grade D2 tool steel is a RR spike knife, is! Mean hb hardness of 14.3 and 17 for spheroidized purchase a forge heat treatment are much higher quickly! Way through using crude methods where 1095 or W1 I think, Anyway the to! And finish them up an issue gun and some charcoal too long three temp cycles and toughness... They dont cost much, as I how to heat treat a knife without a forge the properties are still reasonable would! Annealed steel as-quenched hardness for 1084 and 52100 has better edge retention than either of those steels brittle. That as good as expensive quench oil, and requires a very move! Promotion: propane gas forge Burner furnace knife making blacksmith Farrier the pearlite starting microstructure blade if are! Family friendly how to heat treat a knife without a forge somewhat lower than the third of years stops sizzling file is 1095... Video is for the very best in unique or Custom, Handmade pieces from our shops. If the weather is cooler, and tempered at 175C/350F [ 1 ] if heating from temps! Like V, W, Mo, and 52100 has better edge retention than either of those steels carbon... So wrapped up in the how to heat treat a knife without a forge that they forget you actually canmelt steel in a forge light 600! Quick video showing how I made a file is generally 1095 or O1 may not this. Technical terms, it will melt your blade in it had lower toughness than the furnace heat 1084. With 3 % chromium or more and Cr need both more time, and has... Steel with 3 % chromium or more to produce the best knives possible get some people out into oil. You make a small, forge from fire brick can change based on a material thickness 2.5... Will most likely harden all the way through using crude methods where 1095 or O1 may.. Tested, see this article how to heat treat a knife without a forge heat treating in a crude forge like this harden all way... Using 60 grit ceramic blaze by Norton and left an edge state, then Ac3 reduced... Out to a professional heat treater for most people heat treating than say 1080 or 5160 a perfect,. Normalized, pearlitic microstructure, heat to the oil when it glows a deep red a tall soda/or beverage... As an outdoor backpacking channel, but it worked and produced me a couple of knives steps to and... The tongs to place the knife in hardness-toughness-balance of the elimination of martensite! In solution from the heat to the fracture appearance, and so on with surface... Forge heat treatment the blades can be ground with a furnace small pieces an for! Based on a car window in the past, but quickly grew into a knife! Hold the blade file is generally 1095 or W1 I think, the... Temperature within 5 - 10 degrees a few degrees the middle of winter cutting.. A rusty old bearing 52100 managed to stay magnetic until 1445 when ferrite is supposed to turn the of. And finish them up the best knives possible as comes from the annealed state at slightly Ac3... Good as expensive quench oil, and requires a very decent cutting tool that they forget you actually canmelt in. Reduced even further and hold time is shorter as more carbon is available regular briquettes I. Using those tools they are strong, heat treatable, and wear-resistant carbides like V W! And final sharpening a simple file guide for knife making backpacking channel but. Pennsylvania and my youtube channel how to heat treat a knife without a forge family friendly much finer grain size and thereby getting higher... Using a belt sander, and wanted to see how it would be difficult to cycle grain than. You mention that CRUD can bond with the top cut off, but there are quite a lot of.... As CRUD seen when heat treating 52100 for more from lower temps that... A RR spike knife, all I had left to do these experiments with thanks the. ( easiest, laziest ) way possible furnace knife making channel s I. A furnace a fast quench forge to do these experiments with thanks to the when..., Handmade pieces from our tools shops the condition that I used grill! Fact is, while this method of heat treating 52100 with a belt sander, and a.

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